Two Surfs A Day // Keeps The Doctor Away

We’ve been having a pretty fun time here in Cornwall this summer. Despite the gloomy first few weeks of August, we’ve managed to fit in some memorable surfs on some of our favourite beaches. Clare and I managed to time a few of our days off together so we could explore and embark on a few more of our surfing safaris we love so much. However, this time we decided we are going to document it, not just on land, but in the water too...

Pretty much every time we go surf, I picture certain moments and scenes in the water that would be incredible to capture on camera. However, I can't help but think that, for all those moments where I've felt so disappointed not to have caught them on camera, these images were actually saved from being spoilt by the lens.

Instead, these moments of beauty and happiness are stored in my memory for me to enjoy and recall whenever I want. Those moments are locked in my memory and will remain forever and pure un-photoshopped and un-edited. It’s there, in my mind, just as beautiful and glassy as I thought it was. 

But anyway, on another note, this one fine day we finally managed to bring Clare's camera out to play...

Me. Dropping in on a glassy one.

We wanted to capture at least a few moments of the sheer joy that surfing and being in the ocean gives us. We wanted to capture the pure enjoyment every surfer (no matter their level) feels whilst sliding along on that heaven-sent wave. 

We wanted to capture the grace and beauty as a surfer descends down the line of the wave, shimmy-ing up the board to get those little piggies dangling off the edge. Or that massive smile on your friend’s face as they catch that glassy, peeling wave and ride it all the way to the end YEWW-ing with every turn and loving every second of it! 

Clare racing white horses.

The morning was spent surfing a small but glassy right-hand peak at Watergate, firstly to ourselves, and then shared with a few other sound surfers and one particular ripper! We kicked ourselves for not bringing the camera and getting shots of the crystalline water, blue skies and our ecstatic little faces! 

On the walk back up the beach we discussed our plan of action for the rest of the day. We decided to head on over to Mawgies for the low tide and take the camera in for a cheeky little surf to see what shots we could come out with.

We stopped off for coffee and croissants, but by the time we started suiting up, the clouds had stormed over and the blue sky had vanished behind the grey, rain filled clouds looming overhead. We took the camera in regardless, mainly to practice taking underwater photos, but also on the off chance of stumbling across some atmospheric shots. 

Me. Ominous rain clouds looming overhead.

Not long after getting in the water, the housing began steaming up and clouding over the lens. The photos we took ended up being foggy and not as clear as we hoped they’d be so we were a little disappointed but nevertheless, we stayed in and proceeded to take as many shots as we could before the lens fogged up completely. 

Rain droplets began to dapple the ocean's surface. We relished the opportunity to surf in the rain whilst simultaneously feeling warm; a very rare occurrence in Cornwall!

Rain drops on the surface

We managed to get a few fun shots of us enjoying the rain interlude. It was so beautiful and felt so calming, to be surfing and capturing these moments in the rain. We messed around, catching a few fun rides until both of us tired of holding the camera; preferring to surf together and enjoy the swell that appeared to be slowly increasing by the minute.

Clare hunting for glassy walls

We handed the camera over to the Lifeguards to look after for us while we surfed our little noggins off. The swell increased in size and we ended up having a super fun session with 3ft waves breaking on the left. 

Me. Courtesy of Clare.

We surfed until our arms ached and bodies became too cold to function. Once my teeth began chattering, I realised it was time to get out the water. Out of my shorty 2mm and into some woolies with a hot cuppa tea in hand! Ahhh the great ol’ Cornish summer eh!

We finished the day off cosying up on the sofa back home, snuggled up in our woolies and sieving through the good, the bad and the downright hilarious photos of the day; mainly laughing at our comical faces, stances and accidental bum shots!

Our plan of action for the next surf… Take the camera out on a hot, sunny day and see what shots we could produce. AND, to also find a way to stop the underwater housing from fogging up. Any tips on this let me know!! 

Cheers me berds!

Emma x

Thanks for the shot Clare! xxx