Why Surf? // Feature Article for Still Stoked

I recently wrote a piece for the lovely Alexa of Still Stoked called "The Reasons We Surf"

I’ve found myself all too often becoming so frustrated in the water where I’ve had to leave and call it a day. Other times I’ve been so frightened I worked myself into a mild panic attack; catching a wave to shore and waiting until my erratic breathing subsided and hands stopped shaking until I could paddle back out.

I had a particularly disheartening surf during the summer, where I couldn’t catch a wave and proceeded to be held under after a close out pummelled me to the sand bar, holding me under for longer than I would’ve liked. I came up spluttering and on the verge of tears of frustration. At the shoreline, I couldn’t stop thinking… Why exactly have I chosen this sport in particular? Especially when the rewards are seldom and few between.

Later that evening, I drew up a list of reasons why I surf and why I've dedicated much of my time to becoming a better surfer. I shared these views with StillStoked who was also keen to share my thoughts.Thank you!xx

If you are new to surfing and need a few suggestions to get you in there, or you are continually feeling exasperated in the water, then please feel free to have a little read. 

I hope this gives incentive to carry on surfing regardless. For me, the good reasons always outweigh the bad. 

Enjoy...

Madrugadas Salvadoreñas // Immersion Surf Magazine Feature Article

"The Woman's Voice of Surf"

I wrote a piece that's been featured on the online publication of Immersion Surf Magazine. 

So happy for my work to be published in this female focussed surf and adventure mag. I wrote about my experience traveling and surfing in El Salvador earlier this year. I fell in love with the culture, the climate, the waves and the people whilst over there. It's my dream to return and surf those waves once again. To reunite with the people I was so fortunate to have met whilst over there.

I wrote this piece to share the love of the country, but also share with other solo female travellers that it is a safe place to visit. It is safe if you act as any sensible traveller should. I encountered absolutely no trouble here. Just be wise and don't place yourself in difficult situations. 

Enjoy x

El Salvador // K59

The morning of departure from our base in El Tunco arrived. We rose at 5am, set the coffee on the stove, layered up with suncream, waxed the boards, sipped at the rich caffeine filled treat swirling around in our mugs, and made our way through the quiet early morning street of El Tunco. Only the birds singing their morning songs and the dogs hauling themselves off the roadsides accompanying our morning reverie.

We surfed until 10am, right after right peeling across the line up. Smiles plastered across our faces. We only stopped because we knew if we left early enough, we might be able to squeeze in another morning surf at K59 before the arrival of the midday wind. We caught our last waves in, bidding an ‘Hasta luego amigos, nos vemos otra vez, estoy seguro!” to Dennis and his mates. We made tracks back up the volcanic sand beach where the heat of the sun had already scorched the surface. We bought our last papaya juice and quickly packed up our board bags before the heat of the day kicked in. We were ready for a ride over to the next stop on our trip.

El Salvador’s Pacific coastline is littered with limitless rocky right hand point breaks. We had researched the breaks before we arrived, reading up as much as we could about the various spots; where was heaviest (Punta Roca), which break had the busiest crowds (Tunco) and where was quietest, but we still never really knew quite what to expect.

El Salvador // El Tunco

Clare and I learnt to surf together back at university 7 or 8 years ago now. We would head down to the closest beach, mid-winter, head to toe in neoprene. Wetsuits too big. Gloves laced with holes, barely keeping our fingertips warm. We learnt to surf on the North coast, catching a ride wherever possible from the south. Neither of us had a car, it was our first year of uni, we didn’t really have a clue what we were doing but we headed out in the walls of white water anyway. I still remember running Clare clean over on my 8ft swell board as if it were only yesterday!



We swore to each other we would keep on surfing. We were hooked. The bitterly northerlies, and relentless whippings from the cold Atlantic failed to deter us. We were addicted, and from these early winter days, we both knew we were in it for the long haul. We promised ourselves, repeatedly over and over again, that we would get better. We would keep trying, keep practising, never giving up. We wanted to get out back, paddle past that great churning wall of white water the Atlantic threw at us day in, day out. We wanted to travel the world for surf, seeking out new destinations, tropical surf spots we had only read about. These goofy teenagers in their hole-ridden, rented wetsuits made a pact between themselves.

One Day // Porto De Mos

The photos below were taken on an unforgettable day. This was from one of the shorter trips I was fortunate enough to take to the Algarve, Portugal, at the beginning of December 2017. The mornings were crisp, yet still a firm few degrees warmer than the Cornish shores around this time of year. 

We had a couple days of rain and strong winds as a large swell hit the West coast...

Portugal // A Solo Adventure

Last year, before the summer crowds descended upon Cornwall, I hopped on a short flight from Newquay to Faro for my first solo surf trip to Portugal. I left with the intention of seeking out new waves, to dust off my shorty wetsuit and feel the warmth of Portuguese sunshine on my bare skin. I was hoping for an adventure, an opportunity to explore, to eat Pastel de Nata's fresh from the bakery every morning, to stroll down cobbled streets in the warmth of an early summer evening's breeze, to wake early and surf a new break every day, and to ultimately, meet some new people along the way...

A Winter Escape // Return To The Slopes.

We woke the next morning, still tired but the excitement of what the day held in store for us, soon vanquished any feelings of tiredness. We washed and dressed in our thermals as quickly as possible and stumbled out of our  creaky bedroom doors over to the lounge/dining area where the chalet hosts had laid a table of tea, croissant, jam, basically everything you could wish for for your first taste of a French mountain breakfast.

A Very Happy Matty At The Breakfast Table

A Winter Escape // Journey To The Mountains

This was the first time in... 12 years (YIKES!) that I had been skiing.

Since moving to Cornwall the idea of escaping the Cornish winter to umm, colder climes, just hasn't really appealed to me that much. The thought of basking in tropical sunshine, frolicking in warm water and surfing clean, reeling waves appealed to my senses so much more.

Surfing // Messanges

After the initial storm swell began to die down a little, the surf got good, and I mean REAL GOOD (for me anyway)! As the waves got a little smaller, Matty and I were able to surf together more. And as a result, we had some of the most incredible surfs together we've ever had.

Clean French Mornings

Les Casernes

We woke in Les Casernes the next morning to the sound of the waves. The swell had well and truly kicked in and the waves were booming in. We cycled up to the beach to view it from the lookout point. There we saw 6ft bombs hoofing in, lining up the beach for miles. My legs felt a little jelly-like on seeing these thunderous beasts.

Waking Up In Biscarosse

The next morning we woke with the sunrise, albeit a bit of a cloudy one. I opened the van to the sight of the pine trees towering overhead.

The aire de camping was busy but there were only a few campers up and ready and taking their first sip of coffee in the dewy morning.

A French Road Trip

With the Quiksilver and Roxy Pro on over at Hossegor this past week, I couldn't help but feel a little pang of jealousy of those over there. I've been back only a week... Actually maybe 2 now? Anyway, regardless, those beach breaks are calling me, (not the 6ft heavy bombs, just the 2-3ft beachies ha!) just one more surf in my summer suit, followed by crawling back onto the beach with spaghetti arms and the biggest grin on my face. Followed by an afternoon of lazing in that autumn sunshine whilst munching on picnic goodies. I can't complain too much, seeing as the weather and surf have actually been pretty fun back at home, but still. I'm just saying, I absolutely loved France!

A camping holiday is amazing, you have the freedom to go wherever you want, whenever you want. No hotel check in and out times, no one watching your every move, just you and the nature around you.

On the night ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff

September Goals And Another Yoga Video For Surfers

I just stumbled upon this interview from Cooler Mag with the inspiring Lucy Foster Perkins. This woman just makes me want to go and live the nomadic existence I've always dreamed of but have felt too ashamed in achieving it. Possibly, a life that seems too easy to others? But regardless, it's one that would make me incredibly happy, and what does it matter what other people think of you?

Wellawaya to Buduruwagala

After the swell had failed produce the goods down on the South coast we decided to see more of the country and experience the beauty of Sri Lanka's hill country and its vast tea plantations.

Mirissa Surf & Storms

We managed to get a few good surfs in in Mirissa but it didn't take long for it to get crowded on this short right-hander. When the line-up got too busy and the storm clouds started rolling in, I opted out and left Matty in there so I could take a few snaps.

Weligama Sunsets

After attempting to discover some waves, a group of us eventually stumbled across Weligama when cruising down the coast in a couple of tuk tuks, with our boards haphazardly strapped to the roof.

Seek Adventure

SEEK ADVENTURE AND DISCOVER SOMETHING OR SOMEWHERE NEW

Releasing the babies

The best part of the turtle project was by far, releasing the baby turtles back into the ocean. About 83 Olive Ridley eggs hatched in the sanctuary (they had been taken from the beach just to be safe that no one would steal and eat the eggs, as apparently this happens quite a lot) and were kept in a large tank overnight, then released the next day at sunset.

The dogs joined us on the beach for the release of the bambinos

Ambalangoda. When we weren't scrubbing tanks...

Although much of our time was spent scrubbing and feeding, we did manage to find time to do other things whilst in Ambalangoda. Here's a few photos to better show what life was like during the turtle project:

The walk to the sanctuary in the morning accompanied by some mateys

Feed, Clean, Sweat, Repeat...

Unfortunately, due to the fact that I have been internet-less for the past week/2 weeks I haven’t been able to keep up to date on my blog and travels etc, so instead of a day by day i’ll just write about the highlights instead! 

Some of the turtle sanctuary's friends