Matty bailed back to the van to get changed and in the water soon as. Being the wuss I am (I don't surf 6ft bombs just yet, I'm up to 5ft bombs, but give me a year or two and i'll be right there with yah!) I changed into my running gear ready for an early morning run, swim and stretch.
We both ended up running down the beach in search of peaks together. After about 20 minutes of cruising down the beach we stumbled upon a sweet left hand break. With star spangled eyes Matty leashed up and leapt in, making tracks for the peak where there were only a few others out there.
I continued running up the beach keeping a watchful eye on the surf. I ran until my legs couldn't carry me across the crumbling sand anymore. As the sun began to rise, the temperature really warmed up and the sight of the sea started looking ever-more appealing. After a sandy little workout I stripped to my swimming costume and cooled off in the shallows. I must have stayed there just splashing around for a while as the sun soon got pretty hot and with no suncream on, I made tracks back for the van to cook up a feast of a brunch.
After this first proper morning of sunshine, sea and sand, the days kind of blurred into one as the weather got better and the surf got a whole lot more fun! The only bad point was the fact that the pictures became fewer and farther between because I left my camera behind too many times. Instead of peering at everything through a lens, I was enjoying where we were and what we were doing, taking everything in with my bare eyes.
We became so caught up in this easy way of life. The early wake up, the surf check, the coffee and croissants, the exploring, the freedom, the sunshine and the waves. We were so caught up in it all that we forgot about technology, or rather we just didn't need it. After constantly having to check social media sites/the internet every day for work I was well and truly ready to give that up for a bit. It wasn't all that hard really...
We replaced the morning magicseaweed webcam for a surf check with our own eyes. Waking up our sleepy faces with a quick walk/skate up the road to the lookout point, accompanied by a blast of fresh Atlantic Ocean air was a perfect way to start every day.
